Four 1-inch-thick tuna steaks (6 to 8 ounces each)
2 tablespoons dried herbes de Provence (or chopped dried thyme, sage and rosemary)
Grated peel and juice of 1 lemon
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4 long slices good-quality ham, such as French Bayonne or Spanish serrano
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (EVOO)
1 onion or 2 shallots, chopped
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
4 vine-ripened or plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped
3 tablespoons capers, drained
Black olives, such as niçoise or kalamata (a generous handful), pitted and chopped
Flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Season the tuna with the herbes de Provence, lemon peel, salt and pepper. Wrap the ham around the tuna and secure with a wooden toothpick. In a nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil, 2 turns of the pan, over medium-high heat. Add the tuna and cook, turning once, until medium, 8 minutes. Transfer to a board to rest.
Return the pan to the heat and add the remaining olive oil, 1 turn of the pan, the onion and garlic and cook until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, capers, olives and half the parsley; toss. Spoon one quarter of the sauce onto each plate, set the tuna on top and sprinkle with the lemon juice and remaining parsley.