Spice mix
4 green cardamom pods
1 large blade of mace or ¼ tsp. ground mace
1 1"-long cinnamon stick or ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon
5 whole cloves
1 Tbsp. coriander seeds
2 tsp. cumin seeds
1 tsp. ground nutmeg
Chicken and assembly
¼ cup unsalted roasted cashews
2 Tbsp. white poppy seeds or 1 Tbsp. sliced almonds
⅓ cup (or more) ghee
2 small onions, 1 thinly sliced, 1 coarsely chopped
1 2" piece ginger, peeled
6 garlic cloves, peeled
⅓ cup plain whole-milk yogurt
2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
4 skin-on, bone-in chicken leg quarters (about 2 lb.)
3 Tbsp. kashmiri or other mild red chile powder, divided
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
3 Indian bay leaves or other bay leaves, preferably fresh
⅓ cup whole milk
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. garam masala
½ tsp. kewra water (pandan extract; optional)
Bangladeshi Plain Pulao, sliced cucumber, sliced red onion rings (for serving)
Spice mix
Toast 4 green cardamom pods, 1 large blade of mace (if using ground mace, do not add here), one 1"-long cinnamon stick (if using ground cinnamon, do not add here), 5 whole cloves, 1 Tbsp. coriander seeds, and 2 tsp. cumin seeds in a dry small skillet over medium heat, tossing occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer to a spice mill or mortar and pestle and let cool; finely grind. Place ground spices in a small bowl and mix in 1 tsp. ground nutmeg (and ¼ tsp. ground mace and/or ¼ tsp. ground cinnamon if using). Reserve skillet.
Chicken and assembly
Combine ¼ cup unsalted roasted cashews and 2 Tbsp. white poppy seeds or 1 Tbsp. sliced almonds in a small bowl; pour in boiling water to cover (about ½ cup). Let sit at room temperature 1 hour.
Meanwhile, melt ⅓ cup ghee in reserved skillet over medium heat. Cook 1 small onion, thinly sliced, stirring every minute or so, until golden brown, 8–10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer onion to paper towels. Let sit 2 minutes to crisp up. Set ¼ cup fried onion aside for serving. Strain ghee in pan through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl; set aside separately.
Transfer remaining fried onion to a blender and add 1 small onion, coarsely chopped, one 2" piece ginger, peeled, 6 garlic cloves, peeled, ⅓ cup plain whole-milk yogurt, 2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 2 Tbsp. tomato paste; blend until smooth. Transfer onion paste to a small bowl. Rinse out blender.
Strain cashews and poppy seeds through a very fine-mesh sieve or skimmer into another small bowl, reserving soaking liquid. Transfer cashews, poppy seeds, and 2 Tbsp. reserved soaking liquid to clean blender and blend to a paste (if you aren’t using a high-power blender and find it’s having trouble getting going, add more soaking liquid by the teaspoonful until mixture blends). Set nut paste aside.
Remove skin from 4 skin-on, bone-in chicken leg quarters (about 2 lb.) and pat dry with paper towels. Toss chicken, 1 Tbsp. kashmiri or other mild red chile powder, 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, and remaining, 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a medium bowl to coat. Heat reserved ghee (if you didn’t have any, melt an additional 2 Tbsp.) in a large high-sided skillet or Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium. Cook chicken legs, turning halfway through, until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side (chicken will not be cooked through). Transfer to a plate, leaving fat behind in pan.
Add onion paste, spice mix, 3 Indian bay leaves or other bay leaves, preferably fresh, and remaining 2 Tbsp. kashmiri or other mild red chile powder to same skillet with ghee. Cook, scraping up any browned bits and stirring constantly, until mixture begins to turn deep orange, about 3 minutes. Pour in ⅔ cup water and bring to a simmer, scraping up any more browned bits. Return chicken to skillet and cook, stirring often to coat chicken, until sauce is slightly reduced, about 3 minutes.
Scoot chicken to one side of pan. Add ⅓ cup whole milk, 1 Tbsp. sugar, 1 tsp. garam masala, and reserved cashew paste to sauce and stir to combine. Return chicken to center of pan and cook, stirring often, until sauce is slightly reduced again, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover pan, and cook until oil pools on surface of sauce and chicken is cooked through, 6–8 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit, covered, 5 minutes.
Uncover pan and drizzle ½ tsp. kewra water (pandan extract) over chicken if using and top with reserved fried onion. Serve with Bangladeshi Plain Pulao, sliced cucumber, and sliced red onion rings.