3 pounds Roma tomatoes, cored and left whole
1/4 medium white onion, coarsely chopped
3 whole cloves
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican
2 teaspoons kosher salt
3/4 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 tablespoons rendered lard or extra-virgin olive oil
SALSA PICANTE:
8 chiles de árbol, stemmed
1/4 medium white onion, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons rendered lard or extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup distilled white vinegar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
TORTAS:
6 birotes salados, bolillos or hoagie rolls
2 cups frijoles refritos
1⅓ pounds carnitas estilo Ciudad Mexico
TO SERVE:
cebolla morada encurtida
quartered radishes
lime wedges
FOR THE SALSA DE JITOMATE:
In a large pot over medium-high heat, bring the tomatoes, onion, cloves, garlic, oregano, salt, cumin and 2 cups water to a boil. Cover and cook until the skin starts to peel away from the tomatoes, for about 10 minutes. Working in batches if necessary, transfer the tomatoes, aromatics and cooking liquid to a blender and carefully puree until smooth.
Wipe the pot dry with paper towels. Heat the lard over high heat. Strain the tomato puree through a fine-mesh sieve (discard the solids) and pour the strained puree into the hot lard (be careful — the mixture will spit and splatter). Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture has thickened slightly and the flavors have come together, for about 20 minutes. Keep in the pot until ready to serve.
FOR THE SALSA PICANTE:
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the chiles de árbol, onion, garlic and 2 cups water to a boil. Cook until the chiles are softened, for about 10 minutes. Transfer to the blender and puree until smooth.
Wipe the pot dry with paper towels. Heat the lard over high heat. Strain the chile de árbol puree through a fine mesh sieve, discard the solids and pour the strained puree into the hot lard (be careful — the mixture will spit and splatter). Reduce the heat to medium and stir in the vinegar and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture has thickened slightly and the flavors have come together, for about 15 minutes.
ASSEMBLE THE TORTA:
Warm the salsas. Split the birotes horizontally, keeping the roll attached on one long side. Spread about 1/3 cup frijoles on the bottom of each birote, then top with the carnitas.
TO SERVE:
Carefully dip each torta into the pot of warm salsa de jitomate (you can also ladle the salsa de jitomate over each torta, but I prefer to dip the torta so that the salsa gets into every nook and cranny and the carnitas and the cut sides of the bread get good and soaked). Transfer to a deep plate or wide bowl and spoon a bit more salsa over each torta; it should pool around the edges. Top with salsa picante and cebolla morada encurtida. Serve with the radishes and lime wedges on the side.