Veal Cacciatore

Veal Cacciatore

2/3 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup broken dried porcini (1/4 ounce)
1 (5-to 6-pound) boneless veal shoulder roast
1/4 cup olive oil, divided
1/4 pound sliced pancetta, chopped
2 medium onions, chopped
2 medium carrots, chopped
2 celery ribs, chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes in juice
1 1/2 (6-inch) rosemary sprigs
2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California
1/3 cup small brine-cured black olives such as Niçoise

Accompaniment: polenta
Preheat oven to 325°F with rack in middle.

Bring wine to a simmer in a small saucepan. Stir in porcini and remove from

Pat veal dry and season with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Heat
2 tablespoons oil in a wide 6-to 8-quart heavy pot over medium-high heat
until it shimmers, then brown veal, turning, about 12 minutes.

Transfer veal to a plate. Discard fat from pot and add remaining 2
tablespoons oil. Add pancetta and sauté over medium-high heat until it
begins to brown. Add onions and sauté until softened, about 8 minutes.

Drain porcini in a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl, pressing on mushrooms
and reserving wine. Coarsely chop porcini and add to pancetta mixture with
carrots, celery, and garlic. Sauté until softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in
wine and cook until most has evaporated, about 2 minutes.

Coarsely chop tomatoes and add to pot with their juice. Simmer, stirring
occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes. Add veal with meat juices
from plate, rosemary, bay leaves, and olives. Cover pot and braise veal in
oven, turning roast occasionally, until center of meat is fork-tender, 2 3/4
to 3 hours.

Transfer veal to a cutting board and let stand, loosely covered. Simmer
sauce over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 10
minutes. Season with salt and a pinch of sugar if desired. Cut off strings
from roast and discard bay leaves and rosemary. Thickly slice veal and
return to pot, basting with sauce.

Cooks’ notes: Veal can be braised and sliced 1 day ahead and chilled in
sauce (covered once cool). Gently reheat in sauce.

Yield 8 servings